More Weathering Depot

Here, you’ll see additional work for either the Hitop, or for friends and clients. I’ll explain some of my methods and materials used, but please understand, I do this as a sideline to help support my family during these uncertain times, so please again understand when I do not divulge all my techniques.

Locomotive repainting and renumbered…..

A project from about a year ago, my Atlas PRR Alco S2 that I previously slightly weathered, including rust patches, was sent through the paint shop at Juanita to be repainted in Penn Central paint with its assigned number: 9806. Photos below of the unit in PRR and PC livery.

To repaint the unit, every window and number board was masked off, then the unit sprayed with a grimy black grey paint. After drying for a day, the decal areas were sprayed with a gloss finish, and after drying, new PC heralds and numbers were applied.

Walther’s Mainline series boxcar…..

Here is a Walther’s Mainline series boxcar done for a friend and client based on my original car shown below. Although it’s almost never possible to exactly duplicate a previous car, I can come pretty close, or something quite similar. First, here is my original car:

Here is my friend and clients car right out of the box, shown on the left below. On all my cars, I always do the couplers, trucks, and underside of each car. I use Vallejo Model Air paint exclusively, as I found imo they cover well, have a fine pigment, and are fast drying, plus have a wide range of colors. The next or first step I do is to mask off any heralds and/or lettering that needs to be either patched, or left intact. The masking in this case is to protect the lettering from the fading I’ll do on this car. For the fading, I’ll pick a color close to the original car color, then mix it with either white or off white that Vallejo carries, until I get a good faded color. I’ll then spray this evenly over the sides and ends of the car.

After the tale is pulled off, I went over the lettering and herald on the top half of the car with a dirt colored Pan Pastel and blended it in to the faded coat. The bottom half of the car was gone over with Vallejo rust texture diluted with water to make it a wash. The roof was done with a combination of rust powders, rust texture, and acrylic oils. Individual rust spots and patches are done with Vallejo rust texture, which again, looks like rust and feels like rust when dry. Photos of the rest of the process on this car are shown below:

Most recent project…..

Here is the most recent project completed, this one is a Walther’s bulkhead flat for pulpwood loading. Photo below is the car out of the box, and one photo of a prototype car which I attempted to replicate:

The first thing I needed to research was if these cars had wood decking applied to the car frame and bulkheads or not. In posting some inquiries, I found these cars to not have wood decking or panels applied, but that they were all steel. With that, now how to replicate those worn, scratched bulkheads?
First, off, I removed the wheels and trucks, and went ahead and got those out of the way. For my trucks, I usually use a grimy black/ roof brown mix to get the color I’m looking for. Again, as I’ve previously posted, I always have a prototype photo or photos on hand as reference. For my wheels , I have two wheel masks on hand as shown below. Also shown is a partial photo of the many various Vallejo paints, textures, and washes I have available:

Now for the bulkheads. To simulate these scratches and worn look, I first tried painting the steel deck and bulkheads with black grey paint, then applied chipping medium over top of this. When dry, I sprayed a rust/Tuscan color over it. I then tried chipping away at the top coat. However, as this was the first time using this chipping medium, I’m not sure if I didn’t spray a heavy enough coat of medium, or I let the top coat of paint dry too long as the chipping medium and method did not work. Previous to using the chipping medium, I always used hairspray. Photos below:

In the meantime, I sprayed a bit of dirt color paint along the bottom of the frame, and on the ends along with a bit of black on the car ends. Since the chipping medium method did not work, I went over the bulkheads with an Exacto knife actually scratching the plastic lightly. When this was completed, I applied a black wash by Vallejo to get down into the scratches. This was followed by rust texture, blended all in with brown and ash powders from Monroe Models. The results I got are shown below:

In the above photos, I also took a white gel pen to replicate the “load lines” the prototype applied to these cars as shown here:

With these done, I moved on to the steel deck. I wanted to try to replicate this prototype:

For the deck itself, I already had the black base coat with rust/Tuscan red over the top. I didn’t need to scratch up the deck, just weather it as above. The final work included soot black and ash grey powders from Monroe, blended in with acrylic oil paint for those rust areas. One last blending of ash grey powder went over top before sealing the deck and bulkheads. I think the result turned out well:

For the car frame and outside bulkheads, I used rust texture for all the rust spots and patches.some of this are shown above, but the bulkhead ends are shown below, plus the one prototype end. I think this car really turned out well…!

One for the Hitop…..

Next up on the workbench is the other Athearn Genesis car mentioned previously, the RBWX refrigerator car. The car again right out of the box is shown below right in the series of photos. This car I was trying to simulate not one particular reefer of this class and road name, but a combination of three separate cars I have photos of. I wanted a fairly dirty, worn car, especially one with an older Great Northern logo. I started on this car yesterday, but have worked about half of today on it. The roof has three mediums on it: rust texture, rust pan pastel powder, and a watered down oil paint wash of burnt umber, then blended together, with quite a bit being taken back off with Q-tips to give the appearance you see below.

The car sides have a very watered down oil wash of burnt sienna to give the appearance of a bit of fading, with brown dirt color pan pastels streaked down the side while the wash was still just a bit wet. After all this was done, I lightly sprayed Vallejo dirt over the sides and ends to tie everything together. I’ve put the first sealant coat on the car, and will probably work on the underside tomorrow. I also will put ACI panels from BLMA on the car sides. I’ll of course post more photos as I progress, but for now, here is the car as it looks today. Note the spotted, dirty, grime look of the door in the middle row far right! The car is now finished, and is also shown below.