Welcome to the new page on the website to showcase HO scale models weathered by myself to be offered on EBay, or on this site to fellow modelers. My items for sale will be noted as such here on this page, and can be purchased right here with the payment buttons next to those items for sale. Any questions or comments can be sent using the form below:
Notes on Weathering….
I thought I would post this to give a little bit of an insight on my weathering mediums, and perhaps a few tips. Also how I got into weathering to begin with.
I guess it helps to be a railfan for decades, observing what the prototype looks like, and from working on the prototype and seeing cars and locomotives up close. It also helps to take slides or photos of the prototype to use as reference. There are also great websites for prototype photos of both rolling stock and locomotives such as http://www.rrpicturearchives.net, which is a resource I tend to use. Whatever the source, it’s good to have a reference photo on hand of the car you’re replicating, or a similar car.
As far as weathering mediums, I tend to concentrate on only a few now. I’ve tried quite a few mediums, including watercolor pencils, but never got good results in earlier weathering projects. They may work for others, but not for me. I used to use chalks long ago as well, until I found Bragdon powders, which I still use occasionally. They have, along with powders by AIM, have a self-adhesive quality. The more you rub these on, the more they stick. I really only use these powders now on couplers for a rusted effect, and this sometimes on top of a rust colored wash.
I discovered the medium of pan pastels right when they first came out, tried them, and love them. They have a quality all their own. They go on easy, cover well, and are easy to work with. Just be careful with their use, as they are so fine, they’ll go everywhere, so have some newspaper down under your project!
The two mediums I mainly use the majority of the time now are acrylic paints, and water based oils. Why water based? Being water based, they’re more forgiving if you do make a boo-boo. They’re also easy to work with as well. You do however have to dull coat each layer of weathering you apply. Another advantage of acrylics? They’re inexpensive, plus they, along with oils, are available at any craft store. One other advantage is the wide range of colors.
For sealing everything, I used to use dullcoat liquid by Testors. This product though you really have to use carefully, as imo, too heavy a coat can ruin a model. Dullcoat in a rattle can is really not the way to go. The medium I love to use now instead is matte varnish by Vallejo. This product is a milky, thicker product that thinned with water goes on very smooth and even.
Btw, all of my weathering is done with an airbrush, or at least the base coats. I then apply as many coats and mediums as needed to get the desired look. I started out only using powders applied with sponges and brushes, but nothing beats having an airbrush. Best investment I ever made. However, shop around for the equipment you need. I first purchased a full set including a spray booth, airbrush, and compressor at a discounted price. The airbrush and compressor both however turned out to be inadequate for the job. I pretty much immediately had to purchase a better quality airbrush and larger compressor to get the job done. Another important piece of equipment to invest in is a commercial grade respirator. Whatever paints and sealants you use, be sure to protect those lungs!
Finally, I use two more mediums which for now I’ll keep a secret. Last but not least, accurate, prototypical weathering takes time, an eye for detail, and patience. Also, I usually take two to three weeks to complete a car, as I tend to take extra care between mediums and layers, usually sealing each layer. I do the tiniest of detail work to insure a prototypical looking car. Below you’ll find the current cars available for sale direct.
“New” syrup tank cars…
in deciding to change my one industry to a baking company instead of a manufacturing plant, it dawned on me that I didn’t have any syrup tank cars. In looking at prices of cars starting around thirty-five to fourty-five dollars, I came up with another option.
i had an extra chemical tank car as shown below, plus a molten sulfur car, both of which I didn’t need, especially the molten sulfur car. Both cars were the correct size and capacity for syrup cars.
I took both cars and repainted them in a grimy black. Then I painted the trucks and wheels. I ordered Microscale’s Cargill syrup tank car set for these two. After gloss coating both cars and applying the decals, I then sprayed a light dusting of grey on the cars as weathering. After sealing, these are ready to go to work on the layout.
Gallery of Weathered Cars….